(2 votes)
Price:
R 1250
Good Features
Designed by the god of sport climbing, Chris Sharma. These are great for any type of climbing, comfortable tongue allows longer climbing comfort, snug heel and mildly aggressive arch makes it a great boulder/sport shoe. The Evolv XT-5 rubber is crazy sticky and the symmetrical toe box makes in a must have for climbers with mortons foot (Second Toe being longer than the big toe).
Bad Features
The sizing of the shoe is pretty weird! Try them on before buying a pair. The XT-5 rubber is very soft and tends to wear quicker than most harder rubbers.
All round
Really good shoe for sport and bouldering...
![[title]](http://www.exploratio.co.za/sites/exploratio.co.za/files/imagecache/review-thumb/nikwax_tx_direct_spray_on.jpg "[title]")
![[title]](http://www.exploratio.co.za/sites/exploratio.co.za/files/imagecache/review-thumb/peak_performance_jacket.jpg "[title]")
optimus prime actually not that good
28 March, 2010 - 08:12 — Louis RoodtSorry guys, I had a pair of optimus primes for two weeks then sold them off. The tip of the shoe squeezes your toes into a ball which is great for edging, but sucks for smearing. The pressure on your toe knuckles become unbearable, so much that I started taking the shoes off the moment I hit the chains.
Rather go for the evolv pontas, designed by chris sharma as well, it smears and edges very well without killing your feet!
Straps vs Laces
16 March, 2010 - 17:17 — AnonymousLooks like a good shoe.. I was just wondering if straps are better than laces and if so why?
I'm looking to buy my first pair of climbing shoes and any advise would really be appreciated.
It all depends on what fits
16 March, 2010 - 23:19 — Frederick frankenIt all depends on what fits your foot! The optimus range is only available in velcro and slip-on. Laces take longer but they tend to fit better as the mold better to your foot!
Just try on a whole bunch of stuff and go for what fits/feels best!!
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